We woke early and went up to the restaurant to get some coffee for a walk around the grounds. The flowers and caterpillars were everywhere. Fig, Apple, and passion fruit were in full fruit and daring us to pick them.
We returned to the hotel restaurant and filled our plates with fruit, baked goods, cheeses and such only to be approached later to ask for our cooked to order wishes. Nice surprise.
We carefully applied copious amounts of 50 SPF sunscreen to avoid the harsh sun that had made its presence known the day before.
Juan Carlos arrived on time and we were off to the most complete Incan city which had not been built over by the Spanish. Ollantaytambo was in the process of being completed when the Conquistadores arrived and was still occupied by decedents of those original residents. We were welcomed into the single room home of Peruvians living in the same style as their ancestors of the 15th-16th centuries. A series of four stone structures around a central courtyard with thatched roofs. In one corner was the kitchen space with a small fire atop a waist high stone cooking surface. An opening at each end of the twenty foot high peaked grey stone walls allowed the smoke to escape. The interior of the entire thatched roof was black from smoke.
Next to the stove was an altar with favorite items of significance to the family. In a small alcove above these items were three human skulls with fresh flowers behind them. Juan Carlos said the family received good fortune or protection by the presence of these skulls. They were likely very old from battles in the area resulting in many remains buried in the area and gathered by locals.
On the opposite end were the weaving and sleeping spaces of the home. But most significant to our troupe was the cooing and chirping Guinea pigs hurrying around the floor eating bits of fresh green barley straw.
A lot to take in while we were there for just a few minutes, but an impactful part of travel.
We walked through the town on cobblestone streets with water flowing from the mountains through purpose built drainage along the side. All the walls were the original stone from before about 1520 and occupied by homes, stores, hostels, pharmacies and such. This is a living town.
As we came out of one of the alleyways we were looking out on the terraced stone hillside and adjacent temple that filled your field of view from about a quarter mile away. Scale is something that needs to be experienced. I took pictures anyway.
Once again I did a partial ascent of the impossibly tall structure. High enough for perspective, but low enough to make it back down.
Our next stop was Moray. The drive was up switchbacks on narrow roads that required you to trust your driver and/or your faith.
Since the first time I saw pictures of Moray I had wanted to see it in real life. Can’t say exactly why, but the size, symmetry, and historical science of it were a wow to me. This is a series of agricultural experimental test labs. The Inca had a series of conical terraced depressions from about 200-feet across to about 400-feet across with the larger one about 100-feet deep. The purpose was to test different crops in different soils at different temperatures. The lower you go the warmer it gets. Up to 15-degrees warmer. And they look really cool.
Our lunch had been prepared and waiting for us in an al fresco setting at a small farm. A screened awning with a fully set table and camp chairs already had appetizers waiting for us. The chef met us and was carrying a bottle of Peruvian Chenin Blanc to accompany our lunch. Being the main meal of the day we again enjoyed an appetizer, main course, and dessert. It was probably one of the best roadside picnics I’ve ever had.
Our final stop was at the Maras salt mines. A spring has brought salt rich water to this area beyond recoded history. The Incas channeled this water into small ponds to dry and harvest salt. It became a hugely important trade item and is harvested in much the same way by the descendants of the Inca in about 4000 small collection ponds.
Again, the scale is the most impressive part of this operation. Being a semi serious cook I did sample it to see what the fuss was about. It is actually very nice with a real story supporting real people. The smoked salt is just screaming to meet some grilled beef, so I ended up bringing some home.
Tomorrow. Bright and early we are off to Machu Picchu.
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