Back to Travel. Bears, Beers, and Toads

After having a basal cell carcinoma removed from my ear in Cairns, Ellie and I were finally ready to get back on the road. Our first stop was Townsville, Australia, where we caught a ferry to Magnetic Island. We hoped to spot wild koalas and wallabies along the Forts Walk trail. Accompanied by Doug, Sue, Shirene, and Lenore, we set out for what promised to be a memorable day of hiking and wildlife watching.

Getting to Magnetic Island and the Forts Walk

Magnetic Island is just a short ferry ride from Townsville, making it an easy day trip destination. Once on the island, we took advantage of the local bus service. For just one dollar, the bus dropped us right at the trailhead for the Forts Walk. This made starting our hike hassle-free and gave us more time to enjoy the day.

The Forts Walk is about 4 kilometers long and usually takes around two hours to complete. We weren’t in a hurry, so we planned to take our time, soaking in the views from the hilltops and keeping an eye out for wildlife.

Hiking the Forts Walk and Spotting Wildlife

As we started the hike, Shirene quickly pulled ahead of the group. I felt compelled to catch up with her to make sure she didn’t get into trouble, which she sometimes does. I finally caught up about halfway to the top.

For most of the hike, we saw only a few butterflies fluttering by and enjoyed the stunning coastline views below. People coming down from the top told us to watch for sticks laid on the ground. These sticks acted like arrows pointing to a koala lounging in the trees.

Near the summit, we spotted our first koala. It was sitting quietly, almost like a bump on a log, occasionally stretching and yawning but mostly just resting in the tree. It was a peaceful sight, and we took a moment to appreciate this iconic Australian animal in its natural habitat.

Shirene and I started back down and soon met the rest of our group. They had also seen a koala and a kookaburra perched nearby. As we continued, a wallaby hopped across the road, adding to the wildlife sightings that made the hike so special.

Evening at Arcadia Village Hotel and the Toad Races

By the time we reached the bottom of the trail, darkness was settling in. We had nearly an hour to wait for the next bus, which finally arrived and took us to the Arcadia Village Hotel.

It was Wednesday, nearly 8 p.m., and we arrived just in time for the world’s longest-running toad races. The timing was perfect. We grabbed chairs around a large circle painted on the concrete, ordered a pizza and a couple of beers, and settled in for the show.

The Master of Ceremonies started by "auctioning" off the toads. The bids were almost always over $100 AUD. The "owner" of the winning toad would get the winnings from that race. There were eight toads shown around before being placed into the center of the ring starting gates. The starting gates were just a tall plastic cylinder divided into eight pie shaped segments. Each one demonstrated it's ability to hop before being put in place for the race.

https://youtu.be/G5prQmhJcxA

After about five minutes of selling the toads it was finally time to race. For the first one Ellie turned to me to ask if she could hold my piece of pizza so that I could get a video. By the time she had turned back around the race was over. I think that "Black Beauty" was the winner. Each toad was identified by the colored band around their stubby necks. Yes. It was the one with the black beaded collar. More races ensued and we finally made our way to the bus stop and watched wallabies hopping across the field until the sprinklers came on. A ferry back in the dark and an Uber to the ship and our splendid day was done.

The toad races were a unique and entertaining way to end the day. Watching the toads hop around the circle brought laughter and a sense of community among the spectators. It was a fun, unexpected highlight that perfectly capped off our day on Magnetic Island.

Reflections on the Day

This trip reminded me how rewarding it is to get back to travel after a health setback. The combination of nature, wildlife, and local culture made for a rich experience. The Forts Walk offered beautiful views and close encounters with koalas and wallabies, while the toad races showed a quirky side of local life.

Traveling with friends like Doug, Sue, Shirene, and Lenore made the day even more enjoyable. Their company added laughter and shared moments that made the adventure feel even more special.

If you find yourself in Townsville, Magnetic Island is well worth a visit. The Forts Walk is accessible, scenic, and full of wildlife surprises. And if you’re there on a Wednesday night, don’t miss the toad races at the Arcadia Village Hotel. It’s a unique experience that captures the fun and friendly spirit of the area.

Getting back to travel after a health challenge can feel daunting, but days like this remind me why it’s worth it. The world is full of simple pleasures waiting to be discovered, from koalas in trees to toads racing on concrete circles. I’m already looking forward to the next adventure.