Masai Mara and the Great Migration

Any real safari to Kenya has its focus on Masai Mara. Any safari to Masai Mara hopes to witness the Great Migration. I had scheduled our trip to take advantage of the normal peak time for this spectacular event by booking in mid August. Unfortunately the wildlife was a bit more laid back this year and would not peak for another couple of weeks. That does not mean there are no animals to be seen, just that the numbers are not at their most impressive.

The drive from Lake Naivasha to Masai Mara was another long one. Our driver, Isaiah, turned from the rutted roads onto the rutted path leading to the safari camp that they usually use. Unfortunately my research led me to believe that this camp had been neglected since covid happened and so I had upgraded to Zebra Plains Mara Camp. Once Isaiah realized his mistake we were into bonus time in the saddle to move on to the right lodging.

The sun was already low in the sky by the time we arrived at the luxury tented camp on the edge of the world famous Masai Mara. With clear skies and a gentle breeze we could view impala grazing from the open walls of the tented dining area and nearby seating around the fire pit.

After dining al fresco and taking our malaria medication we strolled back along the dimly lit path to our tent. From time to time we would spot one of the Masai guards in the shadows along the walkway who were there for our protection and assistance if needed. If you were not observant you wouldn't even know they were there.

The only lock on the "door" was the heavy metal zipper on the front of our tent. The four poster bed had the mosquito netting pulled down while we were at dinner. The tent had all the amenities of a regular hotel room with a canvas shell for walls.

Dusty's rules required a hot shower and clean sheets no matter what else happened in the course of the trip. This provided all that and more. Including a nice view of the hill behind our tent. The disappointment of not looking out on the savannah led me to ask if we could change rooms. I was told that that would be possible. Tomorrow. So we made sure that in the morning all our baggage was collected and ready to be moved to the new tent overlooking the plains, the sunset, and all the wildlife.

After a generous breakfast with plenty of Kenyan coffee we were off to Masai Mara National Reserve. When we arrived at the Talek gate to the park Isaiah stopped and got out to take care of the paperwork for our entrance. We and several other vehicles waited and instantly became game to be hunted by the many merchants selling their wares to visitors.

A few would approach the vehicle holding beaded jewelry, carved animals, and such. If you did not look they would tap on the window insisting that you must look and that you must buy something. If they did not all seem to be selling the same five or six items looking might have been something to pass the time. And maybe even buy something. First, they were all the same things. Second, Isaiah still had not stopped at an ATM for me to get cash. Trying to just chat really did not get anywhere and finally we just said for them to spend their time on the jeep over there with eight people in it that surely would want to buy something. (We did eventually buy something once I had some cash. It was from a vendor in East Tsavo where there were almost no tourists going and it looked like he really needed the sale)

The paperwork finished we raised the roof of the van to allow us an uninterrupted view in all directions if we just stood up. Which I did frequently. In the distance we could see dozens of hot air balloons taking flight over the savannah. I am sure that they had a wonderful Birds Eye view, but I really wanted to be down here where the animals were and to save the thousand dollars for something else.

Open plains with a few acacia trees on the occasional rise were first twenty minutes of our drive into the reserve. There was scattered wildlife, but not the numbers that I had been hoping for. Isaiah said that he heard about a leopard on the radio and we made time trying to get there as quickly as possible. As is often the case, when an interesting sighting is announced it results in a traffic jam of safari vehicles at the location.

There was a tree along a small creek that had the recent kill from a leopard that were were able to view. In just the right spot we could spot the leopard's face peering through the tall grass on the other side of the same creek.

Not the best shot, but it was the first of a leopard this trip. Dusty told Isaiah to wait a bit and she would call the leopard out and have him climb the tree for the meal he had set aside. He didn't really think she could and he decided to move along and try getting a better look from the other side of the creek.

Moving along we found ourselves in hundreds of acres of burned grasslands. Isaiah told us that it was a planned burning that would help to restore the fresh grass that the animals came to graze on. The radio crackled again and soon we were on our way to another sighting. This tome we were one of the first to get there. This time it was a cheetah stretched out on a small mound in the burnt out area.

Things were getting better in the sighting arena. I needed to remind myself to be in the moment and accept the gifts that are offered. Like one of Dusty's favorites. A topi. A sturdy looking member of the antelope family with reddish color and splotches of black that look as if they had been spray painted.

Soon we heard that the leopard that Dusty had told to go and get his lunch had taken her advice and climbed that tree. We scurried back and found him just where he had been told to go and I managed a bit better look at him this time.

Starting towards the Mara River we crested a rise and I got the view that felt like I was in the middle of Africa. The wind was blowing the grass as dozens of zebra grazed and a herd of giraffes hurried past them at their elegant loping gate in what could be any time in the past thousand years and I was there. I guess the safari van gave away the time period, but you know what I mean.

Some giraffes were kind enough to pose for me. I've gotten doubles before, but this was my first triple.

Further along we heard that there was a lion hunting a warthog. The guides have strict instructions to keep a distance and group size that does not interfere with the normal activities of the wildlife. Like getting lunch.

This one did not get lunch, but ours was already packed in the van and we stopped along the Mara River to get out and enjoy it.

Banded mongooses were happy to join us. After lunch I took an escorted stroll along the river to see the crocodiles and hippos that call it home. We had a nice chat and I felt closer to both the people and the natural side of Kenya.

Viewing was less productive in the afternoon. Most of the animals had more sense than us. They got out of the sun. But we did add the largest antelope in Africa, the eland to our list.

We added a hartebeest and a secretary bird for good measure before heading back to camp.

Well, can't forget a lilac breasted roller when you get the chance.

When we got back all our luggage had been moved to the new tent and we had a sundowner on our back porch with the unforgettable view of the African plains as our companion.